Four To Look Forward To

Although it's much better than it used to be, Dubai is a cultural dessert in the Summer. It's too hot and everyone goes away. Thankfully, as the end of August arrives, so do the people. Here's what I'm looking forward to over the next couple of weeks:

1. A Touch Of Clay- September 7th - 28th

Next month some friends and I are taking part in a series of pottery workshops led by master potter Mubarakka Nandi.  Hopefully we'll be churning out beautiful ceramics like the ones crafted by Mubarakka (pictured) but even if I end up with something resembling the ball of clay I started with, it'll all be worth it because I'll finally get to use a pottery wheel and quietly sing Unchained Melody with my eyes closed.

2. The Scene Official Launch- 12th September

Pier 7 has been on a roll and it shows no signs of slowing down with the opening of its latest restaurant, The Scene. Headed by British celebrity chef Simon Rimmer the restaurant, consisting of an open plan dining area, lounge and terrace is currently in its soft launch phase. However, come mid September, the restaurant will be fully fledged (and fully licensed). If the recent media preview is anything to go by, expect well executed hearty fare in a Shoreditch inspired setting. 

3. Alserkale Galleries Night- 15th September from 7pm

The Alserkale galleries night makes the opening of  the 2014-2015 arts season. The Avenue in the heart of Al Quoz has long been a mothership of sorts  to the city's creative class which has continued to grow in numbers and influence. With several galleries such as Mojo, Ayaam and Carbon 12 simultaneously exhibiting, it's boung to be a great social and cultural event. 

4. Boyhood- September(ish)

This uniquely epic project by Richard Linklater is essentially a coming of age story. A story that took 12 years to film as we follow Mason (Ellar Coltane) from the age of 6 to 18. It's fascinating to watch him and his parents, played by Ethan Hawke and Patricia Arquette on screen. The actors age as their characters evolve in what is probably the best example of method acting captured on film. Boyhood was set for an August release date in the UAE but according to Gulf Film, the film's regional distributor, the release has been delayed until the film can be submitted for censorship. It should be out sometime in September. 

Four To Look Forward To

Qasr In The Sand

We're spoilt for choice when it comes to hotels in Dubai so it might seem strange to drive three hours into the Liwa desert for a weekend getaway but off I went to Qasr Al Sarab armed with my GPS and an excellent selection of snacks. Know that you'll drive for miles. You'll doubt yourself, you'll ask the GPS lady if she's sure, she won't respond. Then, just as you're eating your final chocolate covered pretzel and the paranoia that you've been driving for 200Km in the wrong direction is about to set in, the entrance appears. You will hear a chorus of angels and it will be beautiful.

The resort doesn't disappoint either. It's much bigger than expected but its traditional architecture in allows it to gently blend in with its sandy surroundings. The first thing that strikes me is how quiet it is, then I take in the view and property's remoteness begins to make sense.

I pay a visit to the Anantara spa where the signature treatment is Traditional Rose Hammam. Black olive soap is applied to purify the skin followed by an intense steam and a vigorous exfoliation. A healing rose clay body mask is then applied. Finally, the pièce de résistance in the form of Shiffa gemstone body oil is massaged into my skin. The oil consists of rubies combined with a pure essential oil blend of rose, geranium and sandalwood. The precious stones are incorporated in the oil as they are known to stimulate and balance the heart chakra, detoxify the lymphatic system and stimulate the reproductive system. I'll never look at Ylang Ylang in the same way.

After my treatment, I wander back to my room, collapse on the bed and proceed to nap. 

I dream of rubies. It's probably one of my top 5 naps.

Qasr Al Sarab brings the concept of a modern Arabian adventure to life with attentive hospitality and meticulous attention to detail in an incredible setting.

Tips

- A road trip needs a great playlist and radio reception cuts out about an hour into the drive so get your music in order.

- Take advantage of the lack of light pollution and do some stargazing. The night sky is incredible

- On the way back, stop on the Emirates National Auto Museum.  I'm not a car enthusiast but it's one of the world's most extensive private car collections and definitely worth having a look.

- The speed cameras work.

Qasr In The Sand

An Education

I grew up in Deira which is now considered old Dubai. I remember walking to the Gold Souk, taking 25 fil abra rides across the creek to Meena Bazaar and going on weekly trips to the fish market.  Deira Fish Market is just down the road from where my family used to live. It was my mother's domain and the place she could demonstrate her incredible bargaining skills and her ability to spot the best produce from a mile away. She was determined to pass these skills on the my sister and I  so every other Friday morning, while my friends in normal households were in bed or watching TV, we'd be down in Shindaga getting lessons in market etiquette. It was crowded and noisy and my mother added to the chorus with 'don't touch!', 'say thank you', 'and hold my hand', 'no thank you'. For a while I probably demonstrated the exact behaviour my mother was trying to discourage however, as I got older I realized that the more cooperative I was, the sooner we could leave. Eventually what used to be an arduous chore, slowly became one of my passions. When I would come home from university I actually looked forward going. I learned where food came from, to appreciate the effort that went into procuring and producing what we ate and the importance of getting to know the people behind the counter. Although my parents are no longer in Dubai and I now live on the other side of town I still try to go as often as I can. My sister and I paid a visit to our old stomping ground last weekend and through the familiar buzz were familiar faces asking 'where’s mama?’ 

An Education

Vanity Fail

I like Vanity Fair. The writing is good and I could look at Annie Leibovitz’s photographs for hours on end. That being said, I was disappointed when I read an article entitled “Dubai on Empty” featured in April’s issue. I have to put this into context by saying that it was written by A. A. Gill who has been known to ruffle a few feathers. He was famously thrown out of one of Gordon Ramsay’s restaurants for making disparaging remarks about his personal life in one of his restaurant reviews. The gist of the article is that Dubai has no culture, that its oil wealth has made it morally corrupt. Yawn. I’ve read articles like this before but this one just seems so badly researched and bitter.

In the article, he discussed the excesses of the Dubai life style at length paying particular attention to the Meydan Racetrack, the ski slope at Mall of the Emirates and of course, Burj Khalifa. Yes, these structures are extravagant but they serve as drivers to tourism which, along with service industries, make up the backbone of Dubai’s economy. Oil makes up for less than 6% of Dubai’s GDP. Admittedly we spend a lot of time in malls, have access to amazing hotels and a lot of money is thrown around but there are lots of sides to this city. Gill failed to mention Deira and Bur Dubai, the more traditional and culturally rich areas which are home to Bastikiya, the Gold and Spice Souk and Heritage Village.

Not all Emiratis are ‘cursed with money’ as Gill puts it. There was no mention of Emiratisation or the fact that there are a growing number of hard working Emirati men and women making valuable contributions to society in all fields. Art Dubai which launched this week (pictured below) and Dubai Film Festival are very good at showcasing Emirati artists that starting to make waves on the international scene. This is a great time for Emirati culture and the movement doesn’t show signs of abating.

Yes, Dubai is home to a host of young professionals who are just passing through, some very tacky people who behave terribly and a few people who have more money than sense. That isn’t going to change. Actually, I hope it doesn’t. What on earth would we have to talk about?

I get that this is his style but using rumours to illustrate points and hurling insults at people he’s never met just doesn’t seem like good journalism to me. Also, trashing Dubai is so 2009. Time to move on...

Vanity Fail